Climate change is putting vineyards at risk — but these emerging wine regions are booming

Humans have made wine for more than 8,000 years. But now, 70% of the world’s vineyards are at risk of being unsuitable for winemaking as temperatures rise and natural disasters become more frequent.

Winemakers have a history of acclimating to environmental pressures, from surviving the phylloxera outbreak that decimated France’s vineyards in the 1800s to the ingenious basket-shaped vines unique to Santorini, Greece. Changing climate conditions will be no exception, as winemakers adapt both their growing and winemaking styles to minimize impact. Unfortunately, there may be no way to mitigate the impacts completely, according to a recent study published in Nature Reviews Earth & Environment.

The downfall of some wine regions is a benefit for others. Okanagan Valley, Southern England and Tasmania were previously unsuitable regions for winemaking but now benefit from more favorable weather patterns. Their winemaking operations are exploding as a result. Savvy travelers turn to these areas for quieter tasting rooms, wines you can’t get anywhere else and the last chance to comfortably experience these wineries before they become the next big thing.

Okanagan Valley — the new Yakima Valley

Photo by Kym Ellis on Unsplash

In viticulture, even the most promising new regions face challenges. Okanagan Valley in Central British Columbia is the new darling of Canadian winemaking, and though warmer, drier weather makes it possible to produce excellent pinot noir, chardonnay and sauvignon blanc there, extreme weather threatens to topple this region before it gets going.

If the Okanagan Valley can stay on its feet, its natural beauty, affordable prices and proximity to the U.S. make it a perfect getaway for wine lovers. Though still relatively unknown, the area has grown from just nine wineries in the 1980s to 348 in 2023 and there is something for everyone to enjoy. Similar in climate to Washington’s Yakima Valley to the south, the Okanagan is poised to compete with Yakima’s impressive diversity of wine production.

Okanagan wines tend to have high aromatic intensity, minerality and subtle tannins. As a newer region, there is a lot of variation in quality. Travelers can’t go wrong with the wine that put Okanagan on the map, the chardonnay from Mission Hill Family Estate. Other top picks are the gamay noir from Desert Hills Estate Winery and the pinot noir from Canada’s 2024 Winery of the Year, SpearHead Winery.

Southern England — the new Champagne

No wine region benefits from warming temperatures more than Southern England. From largely ignored to the darling of Champagne houses, Sussex, Kent and Surrey now enjoy the spotlight as purveyors of world-class sparkling wines. What makes this region so special is its cool climate, diverse and chalky soils and creativity of its winemakers. 

That killer combination has created some of the world’s most talked-about sparkling wines. With similar geological features to Champagne, France, and the identical chalk in the soil that runs through Champagne and under the English Channel, all Southern England needed was a touch more sun to become a player on the world stage.

To try these wines for yourself, take a break from visiting London’s famous sites and hop on a train — these wines are hardly available outside the estates. Once there, stop by the oldest producers, Nyetimber and Ridgeview, to see how English winemaking has evolved in the past 30 years.

After a glimpse through history, head to Oxney Organic Estate for their organic vintage blanc de blancs and see where biodynamic winemaking is heading. Other notable names to try include Camel Valley, Balfour, Gusbourne and Everflyht.

Tasmania — the new Adelaide

Photo by Joshua Brown on Unsplash

Australia is famous for its shiraz, but the most exciting wines these days originate from Tasmania. An island south of Melbourne, Tasmania has a long agricultural history, but its designation as an up-and-coming wine region dates back only to the 1990s. Vineyards in Tasmania have expanded to 5,189 acres from only 1,255 in just 20 years.

Typically a cooler-weather region, Tasmanian winemakers are now moving into warmer-weather varietals like shiraz and cabernet sauvignon more commonly seen in Australia’s largest wine-making region, Adelaide. They also see promise in sparkling wines, even as they maintain their status as the best spot for cool-weather grapes in Australia. In fact, Tasmania may, in the future, become the only place in Australia suitable for cool grapes like pinot noir, chardonnay, and riesling.

To visit Tasmania’s nascent wine scene, base yourself on the East Coast, where most of Tasmania’s wineries are located. No visit is complete without a stop at Moorilla Estate, one of the oldest wineries on the island and the home of the Mona, an interactive museum and cultural venue. Try their Cloth Label wines, described as the best expression of the terroir they make. 

Also worth a sip is the pinot noir from Pooley Wines and the sauvignon blanc or riesling from Frogmore Creek, just down the road from the capital city of Hobart. For something truly undiscovered, head to Stefano Lubiana Wines for a taste of their Malvasia Amphora, a white grape more commonly seen in Istria, Croatia, and aged not in stainless steel or oak barrels but in clay pots, as the ancient Greeks and Romans made their wine.

Northwest US — the new Napa

Washington and Oregon are already fully established wine-growing regions. Washington produces 15 million cases of wine a year and Oregon produces over 5 million cases. If weather patterns continue to change, Washington’s Puget Sound area will become more suitable for growing cold-weather grapes like pinot noir, which is grown further south in Oregon.

Varietals synonymous with Napa Valley, such as cabernet sauvignon, merlot and zinfandel, will become increasingly viable in Eastern Washington and even into Idaho. As Napa gets drier and hotter, winemaking is moving north, and the Pacific Northwest stands to gain.

Though almost all of Washington’s wines are currently grown in the eastern part of the state, Washington offers convenient tasting rooms throughout the state. Woodinville, just outside Seattle, is an easy day trip from the city and provides dozens of winery options. Try the D2 red blend from DeLille Cellars or the syrah from Wandering Wolf Cellars. For an under-the-radar white option, the albariño from Amos Rome is turning heads and showing the promise of the Lake Chelan appellation.

Raise a glass

Today’s biggest wine regions may be at risk due to climate change, based on the Nature Reviews Earth & Environment study, but there’s a lot of hope as new locations become viable growing regions. Whether you’re looking for the next Napa or want to sip Champagne-quality sparkling wine without the price, these up-and-coming spots are perfect to visit now — before everyone else catches on.

This article originally appeared on Food Drink Life.

Ashley
Ashley
I'm Ashley, the founder of Wanderlux and a travel junkie. When I'm not at home near Seattle, Washington, you can find me on the beach in Mexico or traveling the world. Wherever I am, I aim to travel respectfully, show my kids new things, and learn more than I teach.

KEEP WANDERING

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