‘Halt! Who comes there?’
Every night at precisely 9.52 pm, those words start the traditional locking up of the Tower of London. This ritual, known as the Ceremony of the Keys, has taken place nearly every single night for the last 700 years.
The Tower of London is one of the most popular tourist attractions in London. This imposing fortress has been the home of royalty and prisoners, and its ancient walls are steeped in history, ceremony, and tradition.
When my family and I visited London in June 2024, we joined the three million tourists who visit the Tower of London each year. We enjoyed an unforgettable private tour that ended with the traditional Ceremony of the Keys.
Read on to learn more about the centuries-old Ceremony of the Keys and whether I’d recommend a private after hours Tower of London tour.
The Ceremony Of The Keys
The iconic Tower of London is one of the United Kingdom’s Historic Royal Palaces and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It’s one of the most popular UK tourist attractions along with other London landmarks like Buckingham Palace and Westminster Abbey.
William the Conqueror founded the Tower after the Norman Conquest of 1066. It includes several buildings, including the Bloody Tower, Wakefield Tower, and the Jewel House that holds the priceless Crown Jewels of the United Kingdom. The White Tower, which most people think of as the Tower of London, dates from 1078.
Over the last thousand years of British history, the Tower has been an armory, a treasury, and a royal residence. Kings and queens of England, including Edward VI, Mary I, and Elizabeth I, stayed there briefly before their coronations.
At the other end of the scale, the Tower has also been a prison and place of execution. Henry VIII’s second wife, Anne Boleyn, and fifth wife, Catherine Howard, were both executed in the Tower, while Lady Jane Grey, known as the ‘Nine Days Queen,’ was executed on Tower Green.
History of the Ceremony of the Keys
The Ceremony of the Keys has taken place every night for over 700 years and is the oldest ongoing military ritual in the world. The gate-closing ritual was originally a curfew to ensure that all Yeoman Warders returned home early instead of staying out late drinking.
The formal ceremony of locking the Tower gates started in the mid-14th century when King Edward III arrived unannounced and walked into the Tower unchallenged. The Constable of the Tower was imprisoned for dereliction of duty, and the King decreed that the castle should be locked at sunset.
The timing of the ceremony was fixed at 10 pm in the 19th century by the Duke of Wellington, then Constable of the Tower.
Over more than 700 years, the ceremony has never been missed and only ran late once, when a World War II bomb fell on the Tower on 29th December 1940, knocking the Chief Yeoman Warder off his feet.
Although the King or Queen no longer lives at the Tower, it still houses the Crown Jewels and many other priceless objects, so the ceremony remains relevant today. Tradition and ceremony are very important at the Tower of London, and other popular traditions include the Gun Salutes on the Wharf, the ancient Beating of the Bounds, and the Constable’s Dues.
What happens in the Ceremony of Keys?
The main guard, known as the Chief Yeoman Warder of the Tower, leaves the Byward Tower every night at 8 minutes before 10 pm. Dressed in the traditional red Watch Coat and a Tudor bonnet, he carries a candle lantern in one hand and the King’s Keys in the other hand.
After walking to the Bloody Tower archway known as Traitor’s Gate, he meets a military escort of armed members of the Tower Guard. They accompany him to the Tower’s outer gate where a sentry waits.
An armed guard calls out, ‘Halt, who comes there?’ and the Yeoman Warder replies, ‘The keys.’
The guard asks, ‘Whose keys?’ and receives the reply, ‘King Charles’ keys.’
‘Pass then, all’s well.’
The Chief Warder steps forward, lifts his Tudor bonnet high in the air, and says: ‘God preserve King Charles.’
The assembled Yeoman Warders answer ‘Amen’ just as ten o’clock strikes, and a bugle plays ‘The Last Post’ to mark the end of the ceremony.
The monarch’s name changes, but this exact call and response has been the same on every evening for centuries.
How to book Ceremony of the Keys tickets
We experienced the Ceremony of the Keys at the end of a private tour of the Tower of London, which is a fantastic way to explore the Tower without the crowds of tourists. Booking a private tour makes it easier to get tickets for the day you want, and you’ll also enjoy fascinating insights from an expert guide.
You can also book Ceremony of the Keys tickets directly through the Historic Royal Palaces website, which releases tickets on a rolling monthly basis, so July tickets are available from the start of June, for example.
HRP release tickets at 4 pm on the first working day of the month unless that falls on a Friday. In that case, they release tickets on the following Monday instead. The events are very popular, and tickets sell out very quickly on the HRP website. Booking your tickets as part of a guided tour of the Tower of London is the best way of guaranteeing that you’ll see the Ceremony on your chosen day.
Why Do A Private Tower Of London Tour?
This private walking tour allows you to explore an iconic London landmark with an expert private tour guide. You can book it through Walks City Experiences, and what I love about it is it’s refundable up to 24 hours in advance, so if your plans change, you aren’t stuck with expensive tickets. There are several advantages to booking one of these VIP experiences.
First of all, you’ll get to explore the Tower after hours when the crowds have all gone home, and it’s pretty cool to see such a historic building with fewer people around. You get an idea of what life might have been like hundreds of years ago inside the historic walls of the Tower of London.
You’ll also benefit from the expert knowledge of a Yeoman Warder, one of the people who guard the Crown Jewels. Their expertise will give you a deeper understanding of the Tower’s history, and you’ll be able to ask your private guide questions.
Finally, you can tailor your exclusive tour to suit your group’s specific interests, giving you a more personal experience.
Things to Consider
It’s important to note that this tour only goes inside the Chapel of St Peter ad Vincula at the Tower of London. You won’t get to see the Crown Jewels and all other buildings are closed for the evening, so you won’t see inside any of them.
However, you can sit in the pews at the chapel and learn about the famous people buried there, including three of Henry VIII’s six wives. If you want to see the Crown Jewels or go inside any other buildings, you’ll need to book a daytime tour of the Tower of London or visit on your own earlier in the day.
Having done both experiences, I can say hands-down that the after hours ceremony of the keys is absolutely worth it and I didn’t feel like we missed anything (but I’d already done the inside tour). If the timing doesn’t work out for you, check out these other great tours.
What To Expect On Your Private Tour Of The Tower Of London
We were greeted at the Tower by Lisa, one of the Yeomen Warders, otherwise known as Beefeaters. Lisa is only the 4th female Warder in its 700 year history, and it was a treat hear her stories as she showed us around the property.
Meeting The Yeoman Warders
Yeoman Warders are all former members of the UK military with at least 20 years experience and commendations for good service. Beefeaters are now a ceremonial guard and mainly responsible for guided tours, but in former times, they would have guarded the Crown Jewels and prisoners in the Tower.
The Yeoman Warders are famous for their Tudor-style uniforms. When we visited a few years ago, it was just days after Queen Elizabeth II had passed away. This trip, it was striking to see that the uniforms now carried the CRIII monogram for Charles Rex III in place of the ERII for Elizabeth Regina II.
Lisa guided us through the Tower’s history, telling us all about its construction, how the moat worked, and which building is the most haunted.
Hearing these tales from someone who lives and works in the Tower was fascinating. Over 100 people live on-site with their families and pets, including kids as young as five years old. It must be amazing to call the Tower of London home!
The Chapel Of St Peter Ad Vincula
Although I’d been to the Tower of London before, I hadn’t visited the Chapel of St Peter ad Vincula. It was really neat to sit in the pews of the historic church and learn about the famous people buried there, including three of Henry VIII’s six wives.
Lisa explained that they even hold weddings in the intimate setting of the Tower’s chapel for the small community who live in the Tower. In fact, there was a wedding on the weekend before our visit for the daughter of one of the Warders, who had grown up in the Tower and had returned to marry there.
Keepers Of The Ravens
The Yeoman Warders are also responsible for the Tower’s ravens. Legend has it that if the ravens fly away, the Tower and the British monarchy will fall. Later in the tour, we met one of the keepers of the ravens, who was trying to round up the last bird at bedtime.
The most amazing part of the tour was the fact that we were almost alone in the Tower. Apart from our little group of 18 people, just three other groups were exploring the alleyways and staircases of the Tower. Most of the time, it felt like we were on our own there.
I’ve visited the Tower on a regular day before and it’s so much busier during the daytime. The difference was really striking, and the empty spaces gave me some fantastic photo opportunities. I just couldn’t stop snapping away!
The Ceremony Of The Keys
Our private tour guide, Lisa, shared some more fascinating history about the ceremony. She explained that there’s a secret password that changes at 3 pm every day. This is mainly a ceremonial tradition, but all Warders on duty receive the password in case anyone challenges them as legitimate guards.
Around 40-50 members of the general public watch the Ceremony of the Keys under escort each night We ended up quite far from the front, so the boys and I couldn’t see very much of the ceremony. If you want to be sure of seeing the whole process, try to be close to the Yeoman Warder at the end of the tour so you can get the best front-row spot possible.
The guard locks the Tower’s main gates during the ceremony, so you leave afterward through a small door in the large exterior gates.
We started our tour at 8.30 pm, and I worried that the boys wouldn’t be able to handle the late finish. But they were brilliant throughout the two-hour tour, stayed quiet during the ceremony, and only started to get crabby and tired in the Uber back to the hotel.
I think that’s pretty understandable, considering we got back at nearly 11 pm!
What To Wear At The Tower Of London
The private tour is pretty casual and there’s no set dress code, so feel free to wear whatever clothing you feel comfortable in.
Flat shoes are a must when you’re exploring London. You’ll be walking on a lot of uneven cobblestones and some steep inclines at the Tower of London, so I recommend wearing comfortable walking shoes or trainers.
Layering two thin pairs of lightweight socks will help avoid blisters on long days walking around London.
Of course, London is famous for its changeable weather, so a lightweight rainproof jacket is always a must, even if you’re visiting in summer!
Tips For A Private Tour Of The Tower Of London
If possible, this tour would be better during the warmer months in London when the evenings are longer.
Public transportation is the easiest way to get to the Tower of London. There are bus stops nearby, and the closest London Underground station is Tower Hill on the District and Circle Lines. You can find schedules and route details on the Transport for London website.
You could also take an iconic London black cab to the Tower. If you’d like a more memorable way to arrive at the Tower of London, you can take a River Bus on the River Thames from central London to the nearby pier.
This tour involves a lot of walking and standing on cobblestones and uneven pathways. You will need to be able to stand and walk for two hours, and flat shoes will be more comfortable. There was only one opportunity to sit down for about 10 minutes in the chapel, and you must remain standing during the ceremony.
To make the most of your time, combine your visit to the Tower of London with other London attractions in the local area, such as Tower Bridge, HMS Belfast, and the Golden Hinde.
FAQs
Is The Tower Of London Suitable For Visitors with Limited Mobility?
Wheelchair access to the Tower of London is limited, and there are some uneven floors and steep spiral staircases. However, we didn’t really go in the buildings because it was after hours – the Ceremony of the Keys tour is limited to the grounds. For that reason, it’s more accessible than some other options, but still not ideal.
If you’re a wheelchair user or have any specific mobility concerns, it’s advisable to contact the tour operator before you book to check that the tour will be suitable for your accessibility concerns.
Accessible toilets are available at the Tower of London.
Are All Costs Included In This Private Tour Of The Tower Of London?
Gratuities for the guides aren’t included in the cost of this privately guided tour and there are no refreshments provided. There was not an expectation of a tip, so don’t feel like you need to plan this into your budget.
The on-site cafes are closed when this tour runs, so you may wish to take your own refreshments. There are plenty of places to eat in the area around the Tower, though we did find that the nearest fast-casual restaurants (Pret and Starbucks) were both closing before our tour began so arrive early if you want time to grab something.
Is Photography Allowed On A Private Tour Of The Tower Of London?
I had no problems taking our DSLR camera into the Tower and photography is allowed in most areas. However, you can’t take photos or video in the Chapel or during the Ceremony of the Keys. The guides will let you know when it is time to put away recording devices.
Is the Ceremony of the Keys Good for Kids?
My kids loved the tour! The boys were 7 and 10 at the time of our visit, and they found the tour, the stories, and the activity of it all quite interesting. We had visited the Tower on a self-guided tour when they were 6 and 9, and they had an equally good time hearing the history, searching for ravens, and peeping at the jewels.
As long as your children can be still and quiet for about 20 minutes during the ceremony, and can manage the late hour (we wrapped up just before 11 pm), this is a great tour with kids. Mine definitely started melting down as we left, but they did great right up until then.
If you’re traveling with family, don’t miss my complete guide on what to do in London with kids.
Wrap Up
Overall, this was an incredibly cool way to see one of London’s most iconic attractions, and I highly recommend it.
The ceremony takes place outdoors at 10pm all year round, so I would definitely recommend going in the summer. It will be much colder in winter, and you won’t be able to see the buildings as well after dark. Photography would be much more difficult as well.
I worried that we’d feel like we were missing out by not seeing the Crown Jewels or more of the Tower. But it was such an interesting and complete tour that we didn’t feel that way at all. We got to see a ton, we learned masses, and it felt way more special to explore the Tower without the usual crowds of people around.
Watching the Ceremony of the Keys feels like a privilege, as not many people get to see it. However, I enjoyed the rest of the tour more than the ceremony. Being guided around the Tower by a Yeoman Warder and hearing all her fascinating stories was an absolute joy. I highly recommend this tour. It was an unforgettable experience and one of the highlights of our visit to London.
